Tammy, Robert, Alphonse, Sam in the Kisantu Botanical Garden
On Sunday, Jan 13, Sam and I went with our gardener to the Botanical Garden of Kisantu. We also took Tammy, Sam's secretary, for the ride. We wanted to find citrus trees (lemon, lime, tangerine) for the DCR garden (Deputy Chief's Residence), dwarf coconuts, finger bananas and other uncommon plants. Most of these would not give fruit in our "lifetime" but one has to think of future generations of DCM's! So we also took our gardener, Alphonse. Robert is the driver.
Kisantu is on the road to Matadi, the Atlantic port city of DRCongo. The Congo River is 2720 miles long, navigable in sections separated by three series of rapids and falls: the "Gates of Hell", a 75-mile-long canyon of impassable rapids tumbling from the East African Rift (the river is called the Lualaba here); Stanley Falls, now Boyoma Falls, 60 miles long just beyond Kisangani, and finally, Livingstone (or Tembo or N'tombo) Falls, separating Matadi at the bottom and Kinshasa at the top. So the road we were on is Kinshasa's lifeline to the world, since the railroad barely functions now. It's been renovated and is now one of the best roads in the country. Certainly the best near Kinshasa. The road heads almost straight south, peeling away from the Congo river just outside the city. We passed the "Welcome to Bas-Congo" province line (my first time out of the Kinshasa province since we got here in August!), the towns of Kasangulu and Madimba, and arrived at Kisantu in just two hours, 120 km.
I was told the gardens had been destroyed during the wars (used as a military camp), so what we found was a pleasant surprise. A small well-kept museum exhibiting different woods of the world, the Botanical and Horticultural Institute, a knowledgeable and pleasant guide, and acres of strange, beautiful and exotic plants and trees, including the mysterious famous "Tacca" - now that I know how to spell it I've found it on the web. And it's not an orchid, either... And you can buy them at Amazon.com! hmf. Look for "Bat Plant."
This is the Tacca plant at the garden, growing a flower bulb.
The garden was founded over a hundred years ago by a Jesuit Brother, Justin Gillet. He was passionnate about plants and gardens. Like Mendel he experimented with cross-breeding. He developed varieties of tomatoes, lettuce, and other edible plants that were hardy here. He isolated a type of grass that is now used for lawns throughout this region.
This is called Nile Lettuce. It cleans the water in which it lives, said our guide. Indeed, I found an article in the Journal of Environmental Management that concludes that "Pistia Stratiotes" can be used for treating urban and agricultural sewage.
Another nearly black plant.
On the way home, we took a detour to see the Kisantu Catholic Cathedral. We were stunned, because this is the most beautiful building we've seen in DRCongo, by far. Apparently the first missionaries here preferred the climate, above the malaria-infested estuary.
(See how wide an angle my little camera can take?)
The cathedral is massive, intricately and well designed, well-proportioned, truly inspiring.
It was Sunday afternoon, but we were lucky: we were allowed inside, and it was just as stunning. Fantastic texture and color all done with bricks. The bricks, we were told, came from a "briquetterie", or brick factory, in the Botanical Gardens.
After this, we also saw the "Grand Seminaire" of Kisantu which is also built of bricks, quite beautiful and well-designed. Seminarians from six dioceses come to study here. They spend at least seven years here on their long road to priesthood. They're partly self-sustaining, with a garden, well, and generator that they turn on four hours every evening for study time.
Then it was time to go home with the usual roadside scenery of rolling hills and busy towns, and overloaded trucks...
3 comments:
Hi Odile,
I hope this email finds you well. I've been keeping up to date with your blog today and I am so impressed with all that you are doing there in the DRC. I envy your opportunity to be there on the ground and your courage to live in the DRC! Your blog posts keep me riveted. I am learning so much through your writings and pictures. Keep them coming.
I personally am still a long way away from getting any of my story down on paper. The time I carve out for my writing is spent devouring any information I can get through the internet as well as trying to organize my ideas in my mind. I am sometimes overwhelmed by my lack of knowledge of the region and wonder what if I will ever be able to get this story out of me. But I am determined.
As I read about life in the Congo (the poverty, the disease, the hardship), I have learned that the average lifespan is significantly lower than other countries and that many of the children there are orphaned by disease (e.g., aids) and quite simply, poverty (or their parents inability to feed them). As my story floats around in my mind waiting for something to gel it together, I am thinking my story will start with the unfortunate yet realistic loss of my main character's mother (probably from AIDS or cholera not sure yet by which means). With that in mind, I am hoping you might have some info or insight into two issues:
1. What health care is available or how a family handles the illness and ultimately passing of a family member
2. Congolese funerals
The only concrete info I have found so far on funerals is that the family members wash the body before burial. I am looking for info on how the mother might pass and what would happen when she did, such as:
Would she seek treatment and where - are there hospital or medical clinics, what care would she receive, would she use conventional medicine (if available) or more traditional African medicine (I.e. medicine man, etc.)? Are there free clinics or do they have to pay (where I am assuming most could not afford to pay)
Would she have a choice of being in a clinic or would she realistically pass at home?
Would her family be around to care for her through the illness and death?
Where would she be buried...do they have formal cemeteries?
Do they have other beliefs or rituals that they would perform or follow upon the passing of a family member?
Do they have a wake or celebration after?
I realize that this is not the happiest of topics, but would appreciate any info or thoughts you have on the topic.
Again...I hope all is well and I pray for your safety and success in your endeavors to help the people there. I am going to visit the orphanage site as well. It is a noble and admirable effort. Let me know if there is anything I can do from here.
Kind Regards,
Amanda
Hi,
I have a question as well. I am trying to apply for a scholarship to volunteer with SOS Sida in Bukavu, but cannot do so because of a travel advisory against the region. The only way I would be able to go is if I get someone from the American embassy to vouch for my safety there. Is it possible at all for your husband to do something like that? I apologize if this sounds really out of the ordinary.
Please let me know,
Joe Penney
joseph.penney@mail.mcgill.ca
(514) 618-8201
Hi Odile,
From what I've read, you have seen a lot of the Kinshasa region allready. What would you recommend to do or see if you only had 5 days (I'm landing june 10 and leave to Mbuji-Mayi on june 15).
Very interesting blog, keep up the good work!
Greetings
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